Marijuana Flowering Week by Week: Complete Timeline From First Pistils to Harvest

The flowering stage is the most important phase in the life cycle of a marijuana plant. This is the stage when the plant stops focusing on leaf and stem growth and begins producing flowers, also called buds. These flowers are the parts of the plant that are harvested. Understanding how flowering works week by week helps growers know what to expect, what changes are normal, and when the plant is getting close to harvest.

Before flowering begins, a marijuana plant spends time in the vegetative stage. During that stage, the plant grows taller, produces more leaves, and builds a strong structure. Flowering is different because the plant shifts its energy away from size and toward reproduction. This shift causes visible changes in shape, smell, and growth speed. Knowing when these changes happen helps prevent confusion and mistakes.

The flowering timeline is not the same for every marijuana plant. Most plants fall into one of two main types: photoperiod plants and autoflower plants. Photoperiod plants begin flowering when they receive longer periods of darkness. Indoors, this usually means switching the light schedule to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Outdoors, flowering starts naturally as days become shorter later in the growing season. Autoflower plants are different. They begin flowering based on age rather than light changes, usually a few weeks after sprouting.

Flowering time also depends on the plant’s genetics. Indica-dominant plants often have shorter flowering periods, usually around 7 to 9 weeks. Sativa-dominant plants often take longer, sometimes 10 to 12 weeks or more. Hybrid plants can vary widely depending on which traits are stronger. Because of this, the week-by-week timeline is a general guide rather than an exact schedule.

One of the first signs that flowering has started is a change in growth pattern. During the early weeks of flowering, many plants go through a stretch phase. This means the plant may grow taller quickly, sometimes doubling in height. This stretch usually lasts one to three weeks. After that, vertical growth slows, and the plant focuses more on flower development.

Another key sign of flowering is the appearance of pistils. Pistils are small, hair-like structures that appear at the nodes where branches meet the main stem. These are usually white at first and signal that the plant is female. The appearance of pistils marks the true beginning of flower production and is often used as a reference point for counting flowering weeks.

As flowering continues, buds form and become larger week by week. Early buds are small and loose, but they gradually become thicker and denser. Trichomes also begin to develop during flowering. Trichomes are tiny, crystal-like glands that cover the buds and nearby leaves. They contain cannabinoids and terpenes, which play a major role in potency, aroma, and overall quality.

The length of the flowering stage matters because it affects yield and maturity. Harvesting too early can result in underdeveloped buds with lower cannabinoid levels. Harvesting too late can lead to changes in effects and a decline in flower quality. A clear understanding of the full flowering timeline helps growers choose the best harvest window.

This article explains marijuana flowering week by week, starting from the first pistils and ending at harvest. Each week brings visible changes that signal what the plant needs and how close it is to maturity. By learning these stages in order, readers can better understand what healthy flowering looks like and how long the process usually takes.

Knowing the flowering timeline also helps reduce stress and guesswork. Many growers worry when leaves change color, growth slows, or smells increase. When these changes are expected and understood, it becomes easier to tell the difference between normal flowering behavior and real problems. A clear timeline turns flowering from a mystery into a predictable process.

By the end of this guide, readers will have a full picture of how marijuana flowers develop over time. This foundation makes it easier to follow the detailed week-by-week breakdown that follows and to understand why timing, observation, and patience are essential during the flowering stage.

What Triggers the Flowering Stage in Marijuana Plants

The flowering stage in marijuana plants begins when the plant receives a clear signal that it is time to stop growing leaves and stems and start producing buds. This signal is mainly controlled by light exposure, but other factors like plant maturity and environment also play a role. Understanding what triggers flowering helps growers predict when buds will form and avoid common mistakes that delay or disrupt this stage.

Light Cycle Changes and Flowering

For most marijuana plants, flowering is triggered by a change in the light cycle. These plants are called photoperiod plants. They respond to the length of darkness they receive each day, not just the amount of light.

In nature, marijuana plants grow during spring and summer when days are long. As summer ends and days become shorter, nights grow longer. When the plant experiences about 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night, it receives a signal that fall is coming. This change tells the plant to begin flowering so it can reproduce before winter.

Indoors, growers control this process by changing the light schedule. During the vegetative stage, plants usually receive 18 to 24 hours of light per day. To trigger flowering, the schedule is switched to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Once this change is made, flowering hormones begin to activate inside the plant.

Darkness must be complete and uninterrupted. Even small light leaks during the dark period can confuse the plant. This can slow flowering or cause stress-related problems.

The Role of Plant Hormones

When the light cycle changes, the plant begins to produce hormones that control flowering. These hormones tell the plant to stop focusing on leaf growth and instead form flowers at its nodes.

At this point, energy use changes. Instead of growing taller and wider, the plant shifts nutrients and sugars toward bud production. This is why many plants stretch upward during the first weeks of flowering. The plant is preparing its structure to support future buds.

This hormone shift does not happen instantly. It usually takes 7 to 14 days after the light change for clear flowering signs to appear. During this time, the plant is in a transition phase.

Indoor vs Outdoor Flowering Triggers

Indoor and outdoor plants enter flowering in different ways.

Outdoor plants rely on natural daylight changes. As days shorten after the summer solstice, outdoor plants slowly receive longer nights. Flowering usually begins in late summer, depending on location and strain.

Indoor plants depend fully on the grower. By controlling the lights, flowering can be started at almost any time. This allows for multiple harvests per year but also requires careful timing and consistency.

Because indoor plants rely on artificial light, mistakes such as inconsistent schedules, timer failures, or light leaks are more common causes of flowering issues indoors than outdoors.

Plant Age and Maturity

Light alone is not always enough. The plant must also be physically mature. Most marijuana plants need at least 4 to 6 weeks of vegetative growth before they are ready to flower properly.

If flowering is triggered too early, the plant may produce small buds and low yields. A mature plant has strong roots, healthy branches, and enough stored energy to support bud growth.

Autoflower plants are different. They do not depend on light cycles. Instead, they flower based on age, usually starting flowering about 3 to 5 weeks after sprouting. This is due to genetics inherited from ruderalis varieties.

Early Signs That Flowering Has Started

Once flowering is triggered, there are several signs to watch for:

• Rapid vertical growth or “stretch”
  
• Changes in leaf shape near the nodes
  
• Appearance of small white hairs (pistils) on female plants
  
• Slower production of new fan leaves

These signs show that the plant has fully entered the flowering stage and is preparing to build buds.

The flowering stage in marijuana plants is mainly triggered by longer periods of darkness. Photoperiod plants begin flowering when they receive about 12 hours of uninterrupted night, while autoflower plants flower based on age. Hormonal changes caused by darkness redirect the plant’s energy from leaf growth to bud production. Indoor growers control flowering through light schedules, while outdoor plants rely on seasonal daylight changes. Proper timing, complete darkness, and plant maturity are all essential for a healthy and successful flowering stage.

Marijuana Flowering Week 1: Transition and Stretch Phase

Week 1 of flowering is often called the transition phase. During this time, the marijuana plant shifts from vegetative growth to flower production. Even though flowers are not fully visible yet, major changes are happening inside the plant. Understanding this week is important because it sets the foundation for healthy buds later on.

The Shift From Vegetative Growth to Flowering

Before flowering, marijuana plants focus on growing leaves, stems, and roots. This stage is known as the vegetative stage. Flowering begins when the plant senses a change in light exposure. For photoperiod plants, this usually means switching to a 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness schedule. Outdoors, flowering starts naturally as days become shorter.

Once this light change happens, the plant’s hormones adjust. Growth hormones that supported leaf and stem expansion begin to decrease. At the same time, flowering hormones increase. Even though the plant still looks similar to how it did in late vegetative growth, it is now fully in flowering mode.

Rapid Vertical Growth: The Stretch

One of the most noticeable changes in week 1 is the stretch. During this phase, marijuana plants often grow quickly in height. Many plants can increase their size by 30% to 50%, and some sativa-dominant strains may stretch even more.

This rapid growth happens because the plant is preparing space for future buds. Internodes, which are the spaces between branches and leaves, begin to lengthen. This helps improve airflow and light penetration later in flowering. While stretching is normal, excessive stretch can be a problem if plants grow too close to lights or become unstable.

Growers often manage stretch by:

• Maintaining proper light distance
  
• Avoiding excess nitrogen
  
• Using training methods earlier in growth

Early Changes at the Nodes

At the nodes, where branches meet the main stem, small changes start to appear. While pistils are not always visible in week 1, the plant begins forming pre-flower sites. These areas will later become bud sites.

Female plants will eventually produce pistils, while male plants form pollen sacs. In week 1, these structures are still very small and may be hard to identify. However, the plant is already deciding its reproductive path.

Leaf shape may also begin to change slightly. Some growers notice thinner leaves near the top of the plant, especially in sativa-leaning genetics. This is a normal response to flowering hormones.

Nutrient Needs During the Transition Phase

Nutrient requirements begin to change during week 1 of flowering. The plant still needs nitrogen, but not as much as during vegetative growth. Too much nitrogen at this stage can cause excessive leafy growth and delay flower development.

At the same time, the plant’s demand for phosphorus and potassium slowly increases. These nutrients support root health, energy transfer, and early flower formation. Many growers switch to a transition nutrient formula that balances these needs.

Key nutrient considerations in week 1 include:

• Slightly reducing nitrogen levels
  
• Gradually increasing phosphorus and potassium
  
• Maintaining calcium and magnesium support

A sudden nutrient change can stress the plant, so gradual adjustments are best.

Environmental Conditions in Week 1

Environmental control is especially important during this week. Because the plant is growing quickly, it needs stable conditions to avoid stress.

Recommended conditions during week 1 include:

• Temperatures between 68°F and 80°F (20°C to 27°C)
  
• Relative humidity around 50% to 60%
  
• Strong but gentle airflow

High humidity can increase the risk of mold later, while low humidity can slow growth. Keeping conditions balanced helps the plant adjust smoothly to flowering.

Stress Awareness During the Transition

Week 1 is a sensitive time. Stress from light leaks, poor airflow, overfeeding, or pruning can interrupt flowering. Light leaks during the dark cycle are especially harmful, as they can confuse the plant and slow flower development.

Major pruning should be avoided during this week. The plant is already using energy to adjust to flowering, and extra stress can reduce yields later on.

Marijuana flowering week 1 is a transition stage where the plant shifts from leaf growth to flower production. The most noticeable change is the stretch, where plants grow taller and create space for buds. Internodes lengthen, early flower sites form, and nutrient needs begin to change. While buds are not visible yet, this week is critical for setting up healthy flowering. Stable light cycles, proper nutrients, and low stress during week 1 help ensure strong bud development in the weeks ahead.

Marijuana Flowering Week 2: First Pistils Appear

By week 2 of the flowering stage, marijuana plants begin to show clear and important changes. This week is often when growers first see pistils, which are one of the strongest signs that flowering is officially underway. While buds are still small, this stage sets the foundation for everything that follows.

What Pistils Are and Why They Matter

Pistils are thin, hair-like strands that grow out from the plant’s nodes, where branches meet the main stem. They are usually white or off-white when they first appear. Pistils are part of the female flower and play a role in reproduction. In natural conditions, their job is to catch pollen from male plants.

For growers, pistils matter because they confirm two key things:

• The plant is female
  
• The plant has fully entered the flowering stage

Without pistils, buds cannot form. Seeing pistils during week 2 is a strong signal that the plant is on the right track.

Identifying Female Plants Clearly

Week 2 is often when growers can confidently tell male and female plants apart. Female plants grow pistils, while male plants develop small round pollen sacs instead. These pollen sacs do not have hairs and often appear in clusters.

This identification step is critical. If male plants are left near females, they can pollinate them. Pollinated plants focus on seed production instead of resin and bud development. That leads to lower-quality harvests. For growers aiming for usable flower, male plants are usually removed as soon as they are identified.

By the end of week 2, healthy female plants will show pistils at multiple nodes, not just one or two spots.

Early Bud Site Formation

Although buds are still very small in week 2, the plant is already forming early bud sites. These look like tiny clusters of pistils surrounded by small leaves. At this stage, buds are loose and airy. There is no real density yet.

The plant is shifting its energy. Instead of focusing on growing taller or producing large fan leaves, it begins sending nutrients and sugars toward these new flower sites. This redirection of energy is one of the biggest changes happening internally during week 2.

Growers may notice:

• Slower vertical growth compared to week 1
  
• More growth happening at nodes instead of stems
  
• Small leaf growth close to pistils (early sugar leaves)

Plant Structure Changes

During week 2, the plant’s shape starts to stabilize. The fast “stretch” from week 1 usually slows down. Branches may still extend slightly, but the plant is no longer racing upward.

Internode spacing, which is the distance between nodes, becomes easier to judge. Plants with very long spacing may produce airy buds later. Plants with tighter spacing often produce more compact flowers. While spacing is mostly genetic, proper light exposure during this stage still matters.

Leaves near the bud sites may appear slightly thinner or narrower than fan leaves from the vegetative stage. This is normal and part of the flowering transition.

Nutrient Needs During Week 2

Week 2 is when nutrient balance becomes especially important. The plant still needs nitrogen, but not as much as during vegetative growth. At the same time, the need for phosphorus and potassium begins to rise. These nutrients support flower development, root strength, and energy transfer.

Too much nitrogen during this stage can delay bud growth and lead to excessive leaf production. Too little can cause early yellowing. A balanced flowering nutrient plan is usually recommended starting around this time.

Overfeeding should be avoided. Plants are still adjusting, and stress during early flowering can reduce yields later.

Environmental Conditions to Watch

Environmental control remains important in week 2. Plants are more sensitive now than during vegetative growth.

Key points to monitor include:

• Stable temperatures, not too hot or cold
  
• Moderate humidity to prevent mold later
  
• Strong airflow to keep leaves dry and healthy

Stress from poor conditions can slow pistil development or cause irregular growth.

Marijuana flowering week 2 is when the process becomes visible and measurable. The appearance of pistils confirms female plants and marks the true start of bud development. While buds are still small, the plant is making major internal changes that affect yield, structure, and quality later on. Understanding what happens in this week helps growers recognize healthy progress and avoid early mistakes that can impact the entire flowering cycle.

Marijuana Flowering Week 3: Bud Sites Develop

By week 3 of the flowering stage, marijuana plants begin to show clear and steady progress. This week is important because it marks the shift from early flowering into real bud development. While buds are still small, the structure of the final flowers is forming now. What happens in this week strongly affects yield, airflow, and bud quality later on.

Increased pistil production

One of the most noticeable changes in week 3 is the rapid increase in pistils. Pistils are the thin, hair-like strands that grow out of bud sites. They are usually white at this stage and easy to spot. During week 3, pistils appear at nearly every node where a branch meets the main stem.

These pistils signal that the plant is fully committed to flowering. Their job is to catch pollen in nature, but in indoor or controlled grows, they help growers track flower progress. A healthy plant in week 3 will show clusters of pistils rather than single hairs. This clustering is the first step toward forming solid buds.

If pistil growth looks slow or uneven, it may point to stress from light, temperature, or nutrition. Under stable conditions, pistils should continue to multiply each day.

Formation of small bud clusters

As pistils increase, small bud clusters begin to form around them. These buds are still loose and airy, but they now have a visible shape. Instead of just pistils growing from the stem, you will see tiny calyxes stacking together. Calyxes are the small, tear-shaped parts that make up the bud.

At this stage, buds look like small tufts or buttons along the branches. They do not yet feel dense or heavy, but their placement shows how the plant is organizing its flowers. Bud sites closer to strong light usually develop faster than lower ones.

This is also when the plant stops focusing on vertical growth. The stretch that began in weeks 1 and 2 slows down. Energy shifts away from growing taller and moves toward flower building instead.

Leaf structure changes near nodes

Another change in week 3 happens in the leaves near bud sites. Sugar leaves, which are smaller leaves that grow out of buds, start to appear. These leaves are thinner and more pointed than fan leaves. Over time, they will become covered in resin.

Fan leaves may also change slightly in color or shape. Some plants show darker green leaves, while others may begin to fade slowly as nutrients are redirected to flowers. This is normal as long as changes are mild and even.

Growers should watch for signs of nutrient problems here. Yellowing between leaf veins, burnt tips, or curling can signal imbalance. Week 3 is a sensitive time, so small issues should be corrected early before buds grow larger.

Managing humidity and airflow

Proper humidity and airflow are critical in week 3. Buds are still small, but moisture can easily build up around developing flower sites. High humidity increases the risk of mold later in flowering.

Most growers aim for moderate humidity during this stage. Air should move gently across plants, not directly blast them. Good airflow helps strengthen stems, prevents moisture buildup, and supports healthy bud growth.

Temperature should remain stable day and night. Large swings can slow flower development or stress the plant. Consistency is more important than chasing perfect numbers.

Why week 3 matters

Week 3 sets the foundation for all future bud growth. The number of bud sites, their spacing, and early structure are largely decided now. Healthy plants in week 3 usually produce fuller, denser buds in later weeks.

Stress during this time can lead to smaller buds, uneven development, or delayed flowering. Keeping conditions stable and observing plants closely helps prevent problems before they become serious.

Marijuana flowering week 3 is when real bud development begins. Pistils multiply quickly, small bud clusters form, and plants shift their energy fully into flower production. Leaf changes near nodes and proper control of humidity and airflow play a key role in healthy growth. By keeping conditions stable and watching for early warning signs, growers set the stage for strong bud formation in the weeks ahead.

Marijuana Flowering Week 4: Early Bud Formation

Week 4 of the marijuana flowering stage is when plants clearly shift from early flower development into true bud formation. At this point, the plant is no longer focused on growing taller. Instead, it puts most of its energy into building flowers. This week is important because it sets the structure, size, and potential yield of the buds that will mature later.

During Week 4, growers can clearly see that flowering is fully underway. Bud sites that were small in earlier weeks begin to grow and connect. The plant starts to look more compact, and its growth becomes more focused and organized.

Visible Bud Stacking Begins

One of the biggest changes in Week 4 is bud stacking. Bud stacking means that individual bud sites start growing closer together along each branch. Instead of seeing separate small clusters, the buds begin forming longer, thicker flower groups.

These early buds are still soft and light in weight, but they are now clearly shaped like flowers rather than leaf growth. The white pistils continue to grow and spread outward from the buds. These pistils play a key role in flower development and will later change color as the plant matures.

Bud stacking is important because it determines how dense and large the final buds will be. Healthy stacking during Week 4 usually leads to better yields later in flowering.

Slower Vertical Growth

By Week 4, vertical growth slows down a lot. Most plants finish their stretch phase by this point. While some strains may still grow a little taller, the rapid height increase seen in earlier weeks usually stops.

This change happens because the plant has shifted its hormones from stem growth to flower production. Energy that once supported height and branch growth is now used to build buds and produce resin.

This slower growth makes it easier to manage plant height indoors. It also allows light to reach the buds more evenly, which supports better flower development.

Increased Aroma Development

Another clear sign of Week 4 flowering is the increase in smell. The plant begins producing more terpenes, which are the compounds responsible for aroma. These smells may still be light compared to later weeks, but they are noticeable.

The scent can vary depending on the strain. Some plants may smell sweet or fruity, while others may smell earthy or sharp. This increase in aroma is a normal sign of healthy flowering.

Because the smell is getting stronger, proper ventilation becomes more important, especially in indoor growing spaces. Good airflow also helps control humidity and keeps buds healthy.

Trichome Production Begins

In Week 4, trichomes start forming on the buds and nearby leaves. Trichomes are tiny, crystal-like glands that produce cannabinoids and terpenes. At this stage, trichomes are usually clear and very small, but they are visible with close inspection.

These early trichomes are a sign that the plant has entered the resin production phase. While potency is still low at this point, trichome development will increase quickly in the coming weeks.

Healthy trichome growth depends on stable environmental conditions. Strong light, proper airflow, and balanced nutrition help support this process.

Nutrient Needs During Week 4

During Week 4, the plant’s nutrient needs are different from the vegetative stage. Flowering plants require less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients support bud growth, root strength, and flower development.

Too much nitrogen at this stage can cause excessive leaf growth and reduce bud quality. Signs of excess nitrogen include very dark green leaves and slow flower development.

A balanced flowering nutrient schedule helps the plant focus on buds instead of leaves. Consistent watering and proper drainage are also important to avoid stress.

Managing Humidity and Airflow

Humidity control becomes more important in Week 4. As buds form and stack, moisture can become trapped between flowers and leaves. High humidity increases the risk of mold and bud rot later in flowering.

Keeping humidity at moderate levels helps protect developing buds. Strong airflow around the plant also reduces moisture buildup and strengthens branches as buds gain weight.

Indoor growers often use fans and ventilation systems to maintain healthy air movement. Outdoor growers benefit from natural airflow but should still monitor moisture after rain.

What Week 4 Means for the Rest of Flowering

Week 4 is a foundation week. The structure and health of the buds formed now will affect the rest of the flowering cycle. Plants that show steady bud growth, healthy leaves, and early trichome production are on track for successful flowering.

Problems during this week, such as nutrient imbalance or high humidity, can slow development and reduce final yield. Careful observation and small adjustments help keep plants healthy as flowering continues.

Marijuana flowering Week 4 marks the beginning of true bud formation. Bud stacking becomes visible, vertical growth slows, aromas increase, and early trichomes begin to form. The plant shifts fully into flower production, making this a key stage for future yield and quality. With proper nutrients, airflow, and humidity control, Week 4 sets the stage for strong bud development in the weeks ahead.

Marijuana Flowering Week 5: Buds Thicken and Resin Builds

Week 5 of the marijuana flowering stage is a major turning point in plant development. At this stage, the plant clearly shifts its focus from growth to flower production. Buds become more defined, resin production increases, and the plant’s smell becomes much stronger. Many growers consider this week the beginning of “real” flower development because changes are easy to see and smell.

Bud Growth and Structure

By week 5, buds are no longer small clusters of pistils. They begin to thicken and stack along the branches. Each bud site grows outward and upward, forming tighter groups of calyxes. The buds may still look airy, but they are clearly larger than in previous weeks.

Bud stacking happens when calyxes form on top of one another. This gives buds their classic shape. While final density will come later, week 5 sets the foundation for bud size and weight. Branches may start to bend slightly as flowers gain mass, especially on healthy plants.

Trichome Development Begins in Earnest

One of the most important changes in week 5 is increased trichome production. Trichomes are the tiny, crystal-like glands that form on buds and sugar leaves. They contain cannabinoids and terpenes, which affect potency, smell, and flavor.

During this week, trichomes become visible to the naked eye as a frosty coating. They usually appear first on sugar leaves and then spread across the buds. At this stage, trichomes are mostly clear and immature, but their rapid growth signals that resin production is in full swing.

Stronger Aroma and Terpene Production

The plant’s smell becomes much stronger in week 5. Terpene production increases as buds develop, releasing distinct scents that may be sweet, earthy, skunky, or fruity depending on the genetics.

This strong aroma is normal and healthy. It also means odor control becomes more important for indoor growers. Outdoors, the smell may begin to travel farther, especially in warm or humid conditions.

Pistil Changes and Flower Expansion

Pistils are still mostly white during week 5, but their numbers increase. They stick out from the buds in large clusters, giving flowers a fuzzy appearance. While some early pistils may darken or curl inward, most remain white and upright.

Bud sites expand in width more than height during this stage. Flowers begin filling in gaps along the branches, creating longer, more continuous bud formations.

Nutrient Needs and Plant Energy Use

During week 5, marijuana plants require higher levels of phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients support flower growth, resin production, and overall plant health. Nitrogen needs drop compared to the vegetative stage, though small amounts are still required.

Leaves should remain mostly green and healthy. Minor yellowing of lower leaves can happen as the plant redirects energy toward flowers, but widespread discoloration may signal nutrient issues. Stable feeding and consistent watering are key during this phase.

Environmental Stability Matters

Plants in week 5 are sensitive to environmental stress. Temperature swings, poor airflow, or high humidity can reduce bud quality. Buds are getting thicker, which means airflow around flowers becomes more important to prevent moisture buildup.

Keeping conditions stable helps the plant focus on resin and flower development instead of stress response.

Week 5 of marijuana flowering is when buds begin to bulk up and resin production becomes noticeable. Flowers grow thicker, trichomes spread across buds, and aromas intensify. This stage sets the foundation for final bud size, density, and potency. By maintaining stable conditions and proper nutrition, growers help the plant move smoothly toward peak flower development in the weeks ahead.

Marijuana Flowering Week 6: Peak Flower Development

By week 6 of flowering, many marijuana plants are near their peak flower-building phase. Buds are getting thicker, resin is building fast, and the plant is focused on finishing strong. This is often the week when growers notice the biggest changes in bud size, smell, stickiness, and overall “frost” on the flowers.

Even though this stage is exciting, it is also a time when plants can run into problems if the environment is not stable. Week 6 is when you want to pay close attention to humidity, airflow, lighting, and nutrition, because heavy buds and higher resin levels can increase the risk of mold, pests, and stress.

Rapid resin and cannabinoid production

In week 6, the plant usually increases production of trichomes. Trichomes are the tiny, crystal-like glands that form on buds and sugar leaves. They contain much of the plant’s THC, CBD, and terpenes.

What you may notice this week:

• Buds and nearby leaves look frosty or “snowy.”
• Flowers feel sticky when gently touched.
• The smell becomes stronger and sharper, especially when lights turn on or when buds are moved.

This is also when many plants begin to build their strongest aroma profile. Terpenes are natural compounds that create the scent. They can smell sweet, fruity, piney, earthy, or gassy depending on the strain.

Key point: Strong resin does not always mean the plant is ready to harvest. Week 6 is often still early for many strains, especially photoperiod hybrids and sativas. Resin is building, but maturity is still developing.

Pistils changing color (white to orange/brown)

During week 6, many plants start showing pistils that turn from white to orange, red, or brown. Pistils are the hair-like parts you see coming out of bud sites. They help the plant catch pollen in nature, but indoors they are mostly used as a visual sign of progress.

What pistil changes can mean:

• Some pistils darkening is normal as buds mature.
• Pistils may curl inward as the bud gets denser.
• New white pistils may still appear, especially on the tops.

It is important to know that pistil color alone is not a perfect harvest indicator. Pistils can darken early due to:

• Strong light intensity
• Low humidity
• Physical contact with buds
• Heat stress
• Certain nutrient issues

Key point: Pistils are a helpful clue, but they should be checked along with other signs like bud swelling and trichome development.

Bud swelling and weight gain

Week 6 is a time when buds can start to gain weight quickly. The flowers often look bigger and more solid each day. You may also see better “stacking,” meaning bud sites connect and form longer, thicker colas.

Signs of swelling:

• Buds feel firmer and less fluffy.
• Bud structure looks more filled in.
• The plant’s tops may begin to lean or bend from weight.

Because buds are getting heavier, support may become important:

• Use plant ties, stakes, or a trellis net if branches are drooping.
• Keep airflow moving through the canopy so thick flowers do not trap moisture.

Key point: Bud swelling is one of the clearest signs that the plant is using its energy to finish. Stable conditions help buds thicken without stress.

Identifying stress or deficiencies

Week 6 is also a week when small problems can become big if they are ignored. The plant is working hard, and it is more sensitive to changes.

Common issues to watch for:

Humidity problems

• If humidity is too high, buds can trap moisture and develop mold.
• If humidity is too low, plants can dry out and slow growth.

A practical target for many grows in late flowering is lower humidity than early flower. Airflow and ventilation matter just as much as the number you see on a meter.

Heat and light stress

• Tops that look bleached, crispy, or overly dry may be getting too much light or heat.
• Leaves can “taco” upward if heat is high.

Nutrient problems

• Nutrient burn can show as brown tips and dark, clawing leaves.
• Deficiencies can show as yellowing, spotting, or weak growth.

In week 6, some plants naturally begin to fade a little, but major yellowing too early can reduce bud development. Problems are often linked to:

• Incorrect pH in soil or coco
• Overfeeding or underfeeding
• Poor watering habits (too often or not enough)

Bud rot risk
This risk increases as buds get thicker. Warning signs include:

• A dead-looking leaf coming out of a bud
• A soft or brown spot inside the flower
• A musty smell

If bud rot appears, it needs quick action because it can spread.

Week 6 is often when marijuana plants reach peak flower development. Buds thicken, trichomes build fast, and the smell becomes much stronger. Pistils often begin to darken and curl inward, but pistil color alone should not be used to decide harvest time. This is also a key week for prevention. Keep conditions stable, manage humidity, maintain strong airflow, and watch closely for stress, mold risks, or nutrient problems. When week 6 goes well, the plant is set up for a strong ripening phase in the weeks that follow.

Marijuana Flowering Week 7: Ripening Phase Begins

By week 7 of flowering, many marijuana plants enter a clear ripening phase. The buds are already formed, and the plant is now focused on finishing. This week is less about building new bud sites and more about maturing what is already there. You will often see slower growth, deeper smells, and more visible changes in trichomes, pistils, and leaves. This is also a key week for preventing late-stage problems like mold, bud rot, and stress.

Trichome changes: clear to cloudy (and why it matters)

Trichomes are the tiny, sticky resin glands on the buds and “sugar leaves.” They contain most of the plant’s cannabinoids (like THC) and terpenes (the compounds that create aroma).

In week 7, trichomes often shift from mostly clear to more cloudy.

• Clear trichomes usually mean the plant is still developing and not fully mature.
• Cloudy trichomes usually mean the plant is closer to peak potency for many strains.
• Some plants may show a few amber trichomes by late week 7, but many will still be mostly cloudy.

To check trichomes correctly, use a jeweler’s loupe (30x–60x) or a small microscope. Look at the trichomes on the buds, not just the sugar leaves. Sugar leaves can turn cloudy or amber earlier than the bud itself, which can trick you into harvesting too soon.

This trichome shift is one of the best signs that the plant is moving into its final stage. It also helps you plan your harvest window in the coming weeks.

Slowed new pistil growth

Earlier in flowering, the plant produces many fresh white pistils. Pistils are the hair-like strands that come out of bud sites. In week 7, you often see fewer new pistils forming.

What you may notice:

• Many pistils begin to darken from white to orange, red, or brown.
• Pistils may start to curl inward toward the bud.
• The bud may look “fuller” and less spiky as pistils shrink and the calyxes swell.

Do not rely on pistils alone to decide harvest time. Some strains naturally keep pushing new white pistils late into flowering, especially if conditions are not stable. Stress, heat, light leaks, or high nutrients can also cause new pistils to appear even when the plant is almost done.

Bud swelling and final shaping

Week 7 often brings a noticeable change in bud structure. Many plants show a last push of bud swelling, where the buds get thicker and tighter.

You may see:

• Calyxes (small bud structures) stacking and swelling
• Buds becoming more dense and heavy
• Increased stickiness and shine from resin

This is also when the plant’s aroma can get stronger because terpene production continues. However, terpenes are delicate and can be damaged by high heat, poor airflow, or rough handling.

Leaf fading: a common late-flower change

Leaf changes are normal in week 7, especially in older fan leaves. The plant may start pulling stored nutrients from leaves to finish flowers. This can cause leaf color to fade.

Common leaf signs in week 7:

• Fan leaves turning light green
• Yellowing starting from the bottom of the plant
• Some leaves drying and falling off as the plant focuses on buds

Mild fading can be normal, but severe issues are not. If leaves become very yellow very fast, or if you see strong brown spots and burned edges, it may point to a nutrient imbalance, root problems, or environmental stress.

A simple goal for this week is to keep the plant steady and healthy, with enough nutrition to finish, but not so much that it causes harsh smoke or slows ripening.

Managing humidity and airflow to prevent mold

Late flowering buds are thick and can trap moisture. That is why humidity control is very important in week 7. Mold and bud rot can develop fast, and once it starts inside a bud, it can spread.

Good habits for week 7:

• Keep airflow moving through and around buds (use oscillating fans)
• Remove dead or dying leaves that block airflow
• Avoid soaking buds with water
• Watch for humid nights, especially in tents and outdoor grows

If you see gray or brown mush inside a bud, a bad smell, or white fuzzy growth, treat it as a warning sign. Bud rot can destroy quality quickly, so prevention is easier than fixing it.

Preparing for the harvest window

Week 7 is when many growers start planning the final steps. You do not need to rush, but you should begin watching the plant daily.

What to track:

• Trichomes: are they mostly clear, mostly cloudy, or starting to amber?
• Pistils: are most darkening and curling, or still fresh and white?
• Bud density: do buds feel firm and heavy?
• Plant health: is the plant stable, or showing stress signs?

If you are close to harvest, small changes can make a big difference. A stable environment helps the plant finish smoothly and protects the final quality.

Week 7 is the start of true ripening for many marijuana plants. Bud growth slows, but maturity increases. Trichomes often move from clear to cloudy, new pistils slow down, and buds become denser and stickier. You may also see normal leaf fading as the plant shifts energy toward finishing flowers. This is a key time to keep humidity low, improve airflow, and watch closely for mold or stress. By staying consistent and checking trichomes on the buds, you can better judge when the plant is entering its best harvest window.

Marijuana Flowering Week 8 and Beyond: Final Maturation

By week 8, many marijuana plants are close to the finish line. For some strains, this is the harvest window. For others, flowering continues into week 9, 10, or even longer. This stage is called final maturation. Buds stop building new structure fast and instead focus on ripening. During ripening, the plant increases resin quality, finishes swelling, and reaches its best balance of potency, flavor, and aroma.

Amber trichomes and cannabinoid maturity

One of the clearest signs of final maturity is the change in trichomes. Trichomes are the tiny resin glands on buds and “sugar leaves.” They hold most of the plant’s cannabinoids and terpenes. In late flowering, trichomes usually move through three main looks:

• Clear trichomes: The plant is still early in ripening. Buds may not be at full strength yet.
• Cloudy (milky) trichomes: This often signals peak THC levels for many strains. Buds are usually near their best potency.
• Amber trichomes: This shows trichomes are aging. Some THC is changing into other compounds over time. You will often see more amber as the plant gets closer to the end.

Most growers use trichomes as a “ripeness meter” because they are more reliable than a calendar. A strain might say “8 weeks,” but real plants can finish earlier or later based on environment, genetics, and plant health. If you only go by week count, you can harvest too soon or too late.

Bud firmness and final size

In week 8 and beyond, buds often look thicker, heavier, and more solid. They may not get much taller, but they can still “pack on” weight. You might notice:

• Buds feel firmer when gently squeezed (do not crush them).
• Calyxes (the small swollen parts that make up the bud) look fuller.
• Buds appear more “stacked” and less airy, especially on dense strains.

This is also when branches may need extra support. Heavy buds can bend stems, especially late in flowering when the plant is using energy to finish ripening. If branches lean, basic support can help prevent snapping and reduce stress.

Differences in harvest timing by strain

Not all strains finish at the same speed. Flowering time depends mostly on genetics.

• Indica-leaning strains often finish faster, commonly around 7 to 9 weeks of flowering.
• Sativa-leaning strains often take longer, commonly around 9 to 12 weeks, and some can go beyond that.
• Hybrids fall in the middle, depending on their traits.
• Autoflowers do not follow a 12/12 schedule, but they still have a late-flower stage where buds ripen. Many autos finish their full life cycle in about 10 to 14 weeks from seed, though some take longer.

Because timing can vary, it helps to think of “week 8 and beyond” as a range, not a fixed finish date. Two plants of the same strain can even finish at different times if one had stress, poor feeding, or unstable temperatures.

Signs flowering is complete

Late flowering can be confusing because the plant may still show new white hairs in some cases. That is why you should look at multiple signs together. Here are the most common signs that flowering is finishing:

1. Trichomes are mostly cloudy with some amber
   • This is one of the best signs that buds are mature.
   • Use a small handheld scope or magnifier to check buds (not only leaves).
2. Pistils have mostly darkened and curled
   • Early in flowering, pistils are bright white and straight.
   • Near the end, many pistils turn orange, red, or brown and curl inward.
   • Some strains keep more white pistils than others, so do not rely on pistils alone.
3. Bud swelling slows down
   • In late flowering, buds may stop changing fast day to day.
   • They look “finished” and less like they are still building.
4. Fan leaves may fade
   • Many plants start to yellow in late flowering as they use stored nutrients.
   • Some fading can be normal, but severe leaf death can also signal a problem.
5. A stronger, more developed smell
   • Terpene production is often high late in flowering.
   • Aroma becomes deeper and more “complete” compared to earlier weeks.
6. Overall plant behavior changes
   • The plant may drink water differently than earlier weeks.
   • Growth is slower, and the plant looks like it is focused on finishing, not expanding.

What to avoid in week 8 and beyond

Late flowering is a sensitive time. Small mistakes can reduce quality.

• High humidity can raise the risk of bud rot, especially in thick colas.
• Too much heat or intense light can stress buds and harm aroma.
• Rough handling can damage trichomes, which reduces potency.
• Major changes to feeding or environment can shock the plant.

The goal in late flowering is to keep conditions steady so the plant can finish strong.

Week 8 and beyond is the ripening stage. Buds stop stretching and focus on maturing resin, flavor, and potency. Trichomes shift from clear to cloudy, then to amber as the plant reaches the end. Buds become firmer and heavier, but harvest timing depends on strain genetics and growing conditions. The best approach is to watch for a group of signs—especially trichome color—so you harvest during the best window for your goals.

How Long Does Marijuana Take to Flower

Marijuana flowering time is the number of weeks the plant spends making buds after it enters the flowering stage. This time can feel confusing because different plant types finish at different speeds, and your growing setup can also change the timeline. In general, most photoperiod marijuana plants flower for about 8 to 10 weeks, but some finish faster and some take longer. Autoflower plants often have a shorter, more fixed schedule, but their exact timeline still depends on the strain and conditions.

Below is a clear breakdown of what controls flowering length, what is “normal,” and why your plant might finish earlier or later than expected.

Average flowering time by plant type

Indica-dominant strains (often 7 to 9 weeks)
Many indica-dominant strains are known for a shorter flowering period. They may begin swelling buds sooner and reach maturity earlier than many sativas. Indica plants also tend to stay shorter and bushier, which can make them easier to manage indoors. Even so, “indica” does not guarantee a fast finish. Some indica-leaning hybrids still take 9 to 10 weeks.

Sativa-dominant strains (often 10 to 14+ weeks)
Sativa-dominant strains usually take longer to flower. These plants often stretch more during early flower, and bud development can be slower and more gradual. Some can go well past 12 weeks. This longer timeline is normal for certain genetics. It does not always mean something is wrong. It simply means the plant needs more time to fully ripen.

Hybrid strains (often 8 to 11 weeks)
Hybrids fall in the middle most of the time. Many popular indoor strains are hybrids bred to finish in about 8 to 10 weeks while still producing strong aroma, good potency, and solid yields. With hybrids, the best clue is the breeder’s flowering range, but you should still use plant signals (like trichomes) to pick the harvest window.

Autoflower strains (often 8 to 12 weeks from seed, with 4 to 7 weeks of active flowering)
Autoflowers do not rely on a 12/12 light schedule to flower. They begin flowering based on age and genetics. Many autoflowers finish their entire life cycle in 8 to 12 weeks from seed, though some take longer. Their “true flower” period (when buds are forming and ripening) is often shorter than many photoperiod plants, but it can still vary by strain.

What “flowering time” means for photoperiod plants

For photoperiod plants, flowering time usually starts when the plant is placed under 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness (indoors) or when outdoor nights become long enough. But the first 1 to 2 weeks are often a transition period. During this time, the plant stretches and shifts from leaf growth to bud growth.

So, when someone says a strain flowers in 8 weeks, they may mean:

• 8 weeks from the first signs of flower, or
• 8 weeks from the first day of 12/12, depending on how they count.

A simple way to track it is:

• Week 1–2: transition and stretch
• Week 3–6: buds build size and structure
• Week 7–10+: buds ripen and trichomes mature

This is why a plant labeled “8 weeks” might actually take 9 to 10 weeks from the day you flip to 12/12, especially if the strain has a long ripening phase.

Factors that can make flowering faster or slower

Even with the same genetics, flowering time can shift based on the environment. These are the most common factors that affect the schedule.

Genetics (the biggest factor)
The strain’s genetics set the base timeline. Two plants grown in the same room can finish at different times if they are different strains, or even different seeds from the same strain. Clones tend to finish more consistently than seeds.

Light intensity and consistency
Buds develop best when light is strong and consistent. If the plant does not get enough usable light, growth can slow down and flowering may take longer. For photoperiod plants, the dark period also matters. Light leaks during “night” can confuse the plant and slow flowering, or cause stress.

Temperature and humidity
Extreme heat can stress the plant and reduce healthy bud development. Cold temperatures can slow growth and delay ripening. Very high humidity can raise the risk of mold and may push growers to harvest early. A stable environment helps the plant keep a steady pace from week to week.

Nutrient balance and feeding
Too much nitrogen in flower can keep a plant “leafy” and slow bud ripening. Too little phosphorus, potassium, or overall nutrition can also reduce flower development. A steady, balanced feeding plan supports a normal timeline. Overfeeding can cause nutrient burn, which may slow growth and delay finishing.

Plant health and stress
Pests, disease, root problems, and heavy stress can slow flowering. Stress during early flower can reduce bud sites. Stress during late flower can delay ripening or reduce quality. Common stress sources include poor airflow, overwatering, underwatering, heat spikes, and rough training late in flower.

Training and pruning choices
Training done too late can slow the plant down. Major pruning in mid-to-late flower can stress the plant and delay ripening. Gentle training early is usually easier for the plant to handle.

How to estimate your harvest window more accurately

Flowering time estimates are helpful, but they should not be the only tool you use. The most accurate way to judge timing is to watch the plant’s maturity signals:

• Buds stop pushing lots of fresh white pistils
• Buds look swollen and firm
• Trichomes shift from clear to cloudy, then some turn amber
• Fan leaves may fade as the plant finishes

A plant can look “close” for several days or even a couple of weeks, especially in the ripening stage. This is normal. The last part of flowering is often slower because the plant is finishing resin and cannabinoid development.

Most marijuana plants take 8 to 10 weeks to flower, but genetics can push this range wider. Indica-leaning strains often finish in 7 to 9 weeks, many hybrids in 8 to 11 weeks, and sativa-leaning strains often need 10 to 14+ weeks. Autoflowers usually finish in 8 to 12 weeks from seed, with a shorter flowering period that still depends on the strain. Your environment and plant health can speed up or slow down the schedule, so the best approach is to combine the expected timeline with real plant signals—especially bud swelling and trichome maturity—so you harvest in the proper window.

Common Problems During Marijuana Flowering (Week by Week)

Flowering is the stage when buds form, swell, and ripen. It is also the stage when problems can reduce yield, smell, and bud quality. Many issues start small, then get worse fast. The best way to protect your plant is to know what problems are common in each part of flowering, what they look like, and what usually causes them.

Foxtailing and light stress (often mid to late flowering)

Foxtailing means the bud keeps making new, thin “spires” or towers instead of stacking into a solid, even shape. A little foxtailing can happen with some genetics, but sudden foxtailing often points to stress.

What it looks like:

• Buds form long, narrow growths on top of older bud tissue
• New pistils keep popping out late in flower
• Buds may look lumpy or uneven

Common causes:

• Light too strong or too close (especially LED intensity)
• High heat at the top of the canopy
• Too much stress late in flower (big changes in the room)

How to prevent it:

• Keep the light at a safe distance and avoid sudden intensity jumps
• Control canopy heat with good ventilation
• Keep conditions stable, especially after week 5

Foxtailing can make buds less dense and harder to trim. It also raises the risk of mold because the bud shape becomes less even and airflow drops inside the flower.

Bud rot and mold risks (a serious late flowering threat)

Bud rot (often called botrytis) is one of the worst problems in flowering. It can destroy a bud from the inside. Mold can also grow on the surface when humidity is too high or airflow is weak.

What it looks like:

• A bud section turns brown or gray and feels soft
• Leaves near the bud may yellow and pull out easily
• You may see fuzzy growth, but not always (it can be inside first)
• Smell can turn “off” or musty

Why flowering makes this more likely:

• Buds get thicker and hold moisture
• Trichomes and plant oils trap humidity
• Dense canopies reduce airflow

Common causes:

• High humidity, especially during weeks 6–9
• Poor airflow and crowded buds
• Water sitting on buds after watering or spraying
• Cool nights with warm days (condensation risk)

How to lower the risk:

• Keep airflow strong around and through the canopy
• Avoid spraying buds in flower
• Manage humidity, especially late flower
• Remove crowded interior growth before buds get too dense

If you find bud rot, it is usually safest to remove the affected bud area right away. Rot can spread and can also release spores into the grow space.

Nutrient burn and deficiencies (can happen any week)

In flowering, plants need the right balance of nutrients. Too much or too little can cause problems. These issues often show up in the leaves first.

Nutrient burn (too much fertilizer):

• Leaf tips turn yellow or brown (“burned tips”)
• Leaves may look dark green and shiny
• Leaf edges may curl down (“clawing”)
• Bud growth can slow

Why it happens:

• Feeding too strong
• Salt buildup in the soil or coco
• Not enough runoff in drain-to-waste systems

Deficiencies (too little of a nutrient or poor uptake):

• Yellowing between veins (often magnesium)
• Rust spots (can be calcium or potassium related)
• Lower leaves yellowing and dropping early
• Weak bud development

Common causes:

• pH out of range, so nutrients are “locked out”
• Underfeeding during heavy bud growth
• Root stress from overwatering or poor drainage
• Poor environment (cold roots, high heat, low oxygen)

Helpful habits:

• Keep pH in the correct range for your medium
• Avoid big feeding changes from one week to the next
• Watch the newest growth and the mid-canopy leaves, not only the bottom
• Keep roots healthy with proper watering and airflow in the pot

During weeks 4–7, plants often demand more support for bud building. That is when you may see potassium or magnesium issues if the plant cannot keep up.

Hermaphroditism: causes and warning signs (often mid flowering)

A plant becomes hermaphrodite when it produces both female flowers and male pollen parts. This matters because pollen can seed buds and lower quality.

What to look for:

• “Bananas” (yellow, thin male parts) coming out of buds
• Small pollen sacs that look like tiny balls
• Sudden appearance of male parts after stress

Common causes:

• Light leaks during the dark period (very common indoors)
• Major heat stress
• Big swings in temperature or humidity
• Heavy pruning or training too late in flower
• Genetics that are more sensitive

How to reduce the risk:

• Keep the dark period truly dark (no leaks, no peeking)
• Avoid major stress after early flower
• Keep the environment steady
• Do not do heavy pruning late in flower

If you spot a few “bananas” late in flower, it does not always mean the whole crop is ruined, but it does raise the risk of seeds. The earlier it happens, the bigger the impact.

Most flowering problems come from stress, moisture, or imbalance. Foxtailing often points to too much light or heat. Bud rot and mold usually come from high humidity and poor airflow, especially when buds get dense. Nutrient burn and deficiencies can happen at any time, often due to feeding strength or pH issues that block uptake. Hermaphroditism is usually triggered by stress or light leaks during the dark cycle. The key is to keep conditions stable, watch plants closely each week, and address small warning signs before they become big losses.

How to Know When Marijuana Is Ready to Harvest

Knowing when to harvest is one of the most important steps in growing marijuana. If you harvest too early, buds may be smaller and less potent. If you harvest too late, the effects can change, and buds may lose some of their best flavor and smell. The goal is to harvest when the plant is at peak maturity. To do that, you need to look at a few clear signs: trichomes, pistils, bud shape and density, and overall plant changes.

Start With Trichomes (The Most Reliable Sign)

Trichomes are the tiny, crystal-like glands on buds and sugar leaves. They hold most of the plant’s cannabinoids (like THC and CBD) and terpenes (the compounds that create smell and flavor). Trichomes change as the plant matures, and their color is one of the best ways to judge harvest time.

Trichome stages:

• Clear trichomes: The plant is not ready. Buds are still developing. Potency is usually lower.
• Cloudy or milky trichomes: This is a common peak harvest window. THC is usually at its highest.
• Amber trichomes: The plant is more mature. Some THC begins to convert into other compounds. Effects may feel more relaxing for some people.

To check trichomes, you usually need a jeweler’s loupe or a small microscope (often 30x to 60x). Look at trichomes on the buds, not only on the sugar leaves. Sugar leaves can turn amber earlier and may trick you into harvesting too soon.

Simple tip: Check several buds across the plant, not just one. Top buds often mature faster than lower buds.

Use Pistil Color as a Secondary Clue

Pistils are the hair-like strands that come out of the buds. Early in flowering, pistils are often white and straight. As the plant matures, they usually darken and curl.

Many growers look for:

• A large portion of pistils turning orange, brown, or red
• Pistils becoming more curled and pulled inward

But pistils are not perfect. Pistils can darken early due to stress, heat, strong light, rough handling, or pollination. Some strains also keep pushing out fresh white pistils late into flowering. That is why pistils should support your decision, not make it alone.

Simple tip: If pistils are mostly white and straight, the plant is usually not ready. If most pistils have darkened and curled, you may be close. Always confirm with trichomes.

Watch for Bud Swelling and Final Shape

Buds often swell the most in the last 1 to 3 weeks of flowering. This is when they become thicker, firmer, and heavier. You may also notice tighter stacking of bud clusters and more visible resin.

Signs buds are reaching maturity:

• Buds feel dense instead of airy (varies by strain)
• Calyxes (small pod-like parts of the bud) look plumper
• Buds stop “growing upward” and instead focus on filling out

Some strains naturally produce lighter buds, while others produce very tight buds. Compare your plant to its earlier weeks. If buds have clearly stopped expanding, you may be entering the harvest window.

Notice Overall Plant Changes (Leaves and Color)

As flowering ends, many plants show changes in the leaves and overall look. This happens because the plant is finishing its life cycle and using stored nutrients.

Common end-of-flower changes include:

• Fan leaves turning lighter green, then yellowing
• Slower water uptake compared to peak flowering
• A “finished” look where the plant seems to stop pushing new growth

These signs alone do not confirm ripeness, but they are helpful signals that the plant is nearing the end.

Important note: A plant can also yellow early due to nutrient problems. That is why you should still rely on trichomes first.

Pick a Harvest Window Based on Your Goal

Harvest timing can change the balance of cannabinoids and terpenes. While every plant is different, many growers choose a target trichome mix.

Common targets include:

• Mostly cloudy trichomes, few amber: Often chosen for a stronger, more uplifting feel.
• Cloudy trichomes with some amber: Often chosen for a balanced effect and full maturity.
• More amber trichomes: Often chosen for a heavier, more relaxing result.

There is no single “perfect” day that fits every plant. Your best results usually come from observing trichomes over several days and harvesting within the window that matches your goal.

Avoid These Common Harvest Timing Mistakes

Many harvest mistakes come from relying on one sign only or rushing near the end.

Common mistakes include:

• Harvesting based only on pistils without checking trichomes
• Checking trichomes on sugar leaves only
• Looking at only one bud instead of the whole plant
• Harvesting too early because buds “look done” from a distance
• Waiting too long and missing the best terpene window for smell and flavor

A good method is to start checking trichomes daily when you believe you are within 2 weeks of harvest. Take notes on what you see. Even small changes can happen quickly near the end.

To know when marijuana is ready to harvest, focus first on trichomes because they are the most accurate sign of maturity. Clear trichomes usually mean it is too early, cloudy trichomes often mark the peak window, and amber trichomes show later maturity. Use pistil color, bud swelling, and leaf changes as support signs, but do not rely on them alone. When you combine these checks and watch the plant closely for several days, you can harvest at the right time for the best balance of potency, aroma, flavor, and final bud quality.

Harvest Timing Differences: Early vs Late Harvest

Harvest timing has a big effect on the results you get from your marijuana flowers. Two plants can look almost the same, but if one is cut early and the other is cut late, the final buds may feel different in strength, flavor, smell, and overall experience. That is why growers talk about a “harvest window.” This window is the range of time when buds are mature enough to cut, but still changing day by day.

To choose the best harvest time, you need to understand what “early harvest” and “late harvest” really mean. You also need to know what changes inside the buds as they finish ripening.

What “early harvest” means

An early harvest is when you cut the plant near the start of the harvest window. The buds are developed, but they are not at the most mature point yet. Many growers think “early” means cutting as soon as pistils turn orange. That can be a mistake, because pistils alone are not a reliable harvest signal. Pistils can darken early due to stress, heat, genetics, or even touching the buds.

A more useful way to think about early harvest is this: you cut when trichomes are mostly cloudy, with very little amber. Trichomes are the tiny resin glands that hold most of the cannabinoids and terpenes. As buds ripen, trichomes usually change from clear to cloudy, then to amber.

Common reasons people harvest early:

• They want a lighter, less “heavy” finish.
• They are trying to avoid bad weather outdoors (rain, cold, or mold risk).
• They see rot starting and want to save what they can.
• They misread pistils and think the plant is ready.

What early harvest can be like:

• Buds may be slightly smaller and less dense.
• Aroma may be less deep, because terpenes keep developing late in flower.
• The smoke can feel sharper if the plant is not fully mature.
• Potency can be lower if many trichomes were still clear.

Early harvest does not always mean “bad.” It means you are choosing a point where buds are mature enough to cut, but not fully finished. The key is avoiding a harvest that is truly too early, when trichomes are mostly clear and buds have not swollen enough.

What “late harvest” means

A late harvest is when you cut near the end of the harvest window, after the buds have had extra time to mature. At this point, trichomes usually show more amber mixed in with cloudy trichomes. The plant often slows down a lot in its final days. It may drink less water, and fan leaves may fade as the plant finishes its life cycle.

Common reasons people harvest late:

• They want maximum bud swelling and density.
• They want the richest smell and flavor.
• They prefer a “heavier” finish.
• They want to be sure buds are fully mature.

What late harvest can be like:

• Buds may be bigger, denser, and stickier.
• Aroma may be stronger and more complex.
• Some strains show more color in leaves and buds (purples and reds).
• If you wait too long, buds can lose freshness and terpenes can fade.

Late harvest has a risk: waiting past the best window. If trichomes become too amber and the plant is overripe, quality can drop. Buds can start to degrade, and the plant can become more likely to catch mold, especially outdoors or in high humidity.

Cannabinoid and terpene changes over time

During flowering, the plant builds cannabinoids and terpenes inside the trichomes. Over time, many growers observe a general pattern:

• Clear trichomes: Buds are still developing. Cannabinoids are not at peak levels yet.
• Cloudy trichomes: Buds are in the strongest part of the harvest window. Cannabinoid content is often near peak.
• Amber trichomes: Buds are further along. Some compounds are changing as the plant ages.

Terpenes also change as buds ripen. Many strains smell “greener” early, then become louder and more layered near harvest. If you harvest too early, the smell may be flatter. If you harvest too late, some aromas can fade or shift.

Matching harvest timing to grow goals

The best harvest time depends on what you want from the final buds. Here are simple ways to match timing to your goals:

• For a brighter, lighter finish: Harvest earlier in the window, when trichomes are mostly cloudy and amber is minimal.
• For a fuller, heavier finish: Harvest later in the window, when you see a clear mix of cloudy and amber trichomes.
• For best overall balance: Many growers aim for mostly cloudy trichomes with some amber, not too little and not too much.
• For outdoor safety: Sometimes the best choice is the safest choice. If rain and mold are coming, harvesting a bit early can protect quality.

Harvest timing is not one perfect day. It is a window. An early harvest may give slightly smaller buds and a less developed smell, but it can still be a smart choice if trichomes are mostly cloudy or if mold risk is high. A late harvest can give denser buds and a stronger smell, but waiting too long can lower quality and raise the risk of rot.

To make the best choice, focus on trichome maturity, not pistils alone. Use a simple goal: cut when buds look finished, feel firm, and trichomes show the level of cloudy and amber that matches the results you want.

Conclusion: Mastering the Marijuana Flowering Week-by-Week Process

Marijuana flowering is the part of the grow where the plant shifts from making leaves and stems to making buds. If you understand what happens week by week, you can make better choices and avoid many common problems. Flowering is not the same every time, but the overall timeline follows a clear pattern. The plant stretches first, then shows pistils, then builds buds, then swells and ripens, and finally reaches a harvest window. When you know what “normal” looks like at each step, it becomes easier to spot stress early and keep the plant healthy.

The first big change happens when flowering is triggered. For photoperiod plants, flowering starts after the light schedule changes to longer darkness, like 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark indoors. Outdoors, flowering starts when days get shorter later in the season. During the first week or two, many plants stretch fast. This is normal. Some strains may double in height. This stretch is why planning matters. If you wait too long to manage plant height, you can run out of space indoors, or you can end up with weak branches that need support later. During early flowering, the plant still needs steady care, good airflow, and stable conditions, because it is building the structure that will hold the buds.

By the second week, many female plants show their first pistils. Pistils look like small white hairs near the nodes where branches meet the main stem. Seeing pistils helps confirm that the plant is female and is truly in flower. After that, bud sites form and grow into small clusters. Weeks three and four are often when you can clearly see bud stacking begin. Buds start small, but they are setting up the shape and spacing that you will see later. This is also a time when growers should stay alert for early issues, like poor airflow, high humidity, or nutrient imbalance, because small problems can become big ones once buds get thicker.

Around weeks five and six, buds often begin to thicken and resin production increases. You may notice trichomes forming on buds and sugar leaves. Trichomes look like tiny crystals. They are where many cannabinoids and terpenes are produced. Smell often gets stronger during this period. This is also when the plant may need more support. Branches can start to bend as buds gain weight. Clean airflow matters more now because dense buds can trap moisture. If humidity stays too high, the risk of mold and bud rot goes up. This is why many growers focus on ventilation, spacing, and keeping conditions steady in mid to late flower.

As the plant moves into ripening, the changes slow down but become more important. In weeks seven and eight and sometimes beyond, pistils often darken and curl in. Buds can swell, feel firmer, and look more filled out. Some leaves may fade in color as the plant redirects energy toward finishing the flowers. This fading can be normal, but sudden yellowing, spotting, or leaf damage can still signal a problem. The key is to watch the overall trend. Healthy late flowering plants usually look like they are finishing strong, not collapsing quickly.

One of the most important skills in flowering is knowing when to harvest. Many people focus only on pistils, but pistils alone are not a perfect harvest sign. Pistils can change early due to stress, heat, or genetics. A better method is watching trichome maturity. Trichomes often shift from clear to cloudy, and then some may turn amber. Cloudy trichomes usually suggest peak potency for many growers, while more amber can suggest a heavier, more sedating effect. The right timing depends on the goal, but the main point is this: harvest is a window, not a single day. When you learn to read the plant’s signs, you can choose the best time for your preferred result.

It also helps to understand how flowering length can vary. Indica-leaning strains often finish faster than sativa-leaning strains, while hybrids can fall in the middle. Autoflowers have their own timeline and do not depend on light changes to flower, but they still move through similar stages. Even within the same strain, flowering time can shift due to temperature, lighting strength, nutrition, and plant health. That is why the week-by-week guide is best used as a map, not a strict rule. The plant’s condition should guide your decisions more than the calendar alone.

Finally, learning the common flowering problems helps you prevent them. Light stress can cause odd growth or foxtailing. Poor airflow can lead to mold. Nutrient burn can damage leaf tips and reduce plant performance. Heat and stress can sometimes cause a plant to show both male and female parts, which can lead to seeds. Many of these problems become easier to manage when you check plants often and respond early. Small corrections are safer than big changes late in flower.

In the end, mastering flowering comes down to three habits: observe, stay consistent, and time the finish well. If you follow the week-by-week process, keep conditions stable, and judge harvest readiness using clear plant signals, you can improve both yield and quality. With practice, you will learn how each strain behaves and how to guide it from the first pistils to a clean, well-timed harvest.

Research Citations

Corredor-Perilla, I. C., Kwon, T.-H., & Park, S.-H. (2025). Elevated relative humidity significantly decreases cannabinoid concentrations while delaying flowering development in Cannabis sativa L. Frontiers in Plant Science, 16, 1678142. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2025.1678142

Hesami, M., Pepe, M., & Jones, A. M. P. (2023). Morphological characterization of Cannabis sativa L. throughout its complete life cycle. Plants, 12(20), 3646. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants12203646

Kotiranta, S., Pihlava, J.-M., Kotilainen, T., & Palonen, P. (2024). The morphology, inflorescence yield, and secondary metabolite accumulation in hemp type Cannabis sativa can be influenced by the R:FR ratio or the amount of short wavelength radiation in a spectrum. Industrial Crops and Products, 208, 117772. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2023.117772

Massuela, D. C., Hartung, J., Munz, S., Erpenbach, F., & Graeff-Hönninger, S. (2022). Impact of harvest time and pruning technique on total CBD concentration and yield of medicinal cannabis. Plants, 11(1), 140. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants11010140

Peterswald, T. J., Mieog, J. C., Halimi, R. A., Magner, N. J., Trebilco, A., & Kretzschmar, T. (2023). Moving away from 12:12; The effect of different photoperiods on biomass yield and cannabinoids in medicinal cannabis. Plants, 12(5), 1061. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants12051061

Punja, Z. K., Sutton, D. B., & Kim, T. (2023). Glandular trichome development, morphology, and maturation are influenced by plant age and genotype in high THC-containing cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) inflorescences. Journal of Cannabis Research, 5, 12. https://doi.org/10.1186/s42238-023-00178-9

Sae-Tang, W., Heuvelink, E., Kappers, I. F., Contreras-Avilés, W., Bernal Cortes, D., Groen, H., Marin Gomez, J., Nicole, C. C. S., & Marcelis, L. F. M. (2025). Long-days during the last two weeks before harvest applied to short-day medicinal cannabis can improve inflorescence yield. Industrial Crops and Products, 233, 121442. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2025.121442

Spitzer-Rimon, B., Duchin, S., Bernstein, N., & Kamenetsky, R. (2019). Architecture and florogenesis in female Cannabis sativa plants. Frontiers in Plant Science, 10, 350. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2019.00350

Sutton, D. B., Punja, Z. K., & Hamarneh, G. (2023). Characterization of trichome phenotypes to assess maturation and flower development in Cannabis sativa L. (cannabis) by automatic trichome gland analysis. Smart Agricultural Technology, 3, 100111. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.atech.2022.100111

Yang, R., Berthold, E. C., McCurdy, C. R., da Silva Benevenute, S., Brym, Z. T., & Freeman, J. H. (2020). Development of cannabinoids in flowers of industrial hemp (Cannabis sativa L.): A pilot study. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 68(22), 6058–6064. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.0c01211

Questions and Answers

Q1: What happens in flowering week 1?
Flowering week 1 is the transition period. The plant shifts from leaf growth to bud growth, and you often see a “stretch” where it grows taller. You may notice the first white pistils forming at nodes, especially on female plants.

Q2: What should I expect in flowering week 2?
Flowering week 2 usually brings more stretching and early bud sites. Pistils become easier to spot, and small clusters begin forming where buds will develop. The plant still builds structure, so it needs steady light, airflow, and stable watering.

Q3: What changes occur in flowering week 3?
Flowering week 3 is when buds start to become more obvious. Bud sites stack and begin to look like small “buttons,” and the plant’s smell often increases. Trichomes may start appearing on small sugar leaves, but buds are still small.

Q4: What does flowering week 4 look like?
Flowering week 4 is early bud development. Buds thicken, pistils multiply, and trichomes increase across bud surfaces and nearby leaves. Many strains stop stretching around this time and focus more energy on flower production.

Q5: What happens during flowering week 5?
Flowering week 5 is a common “bulk up” stage. Buds get denser and heavier, trichome coverage increases, and aroma can become much stronger. Pistils may still be mostly white, but some strains start showing a few darkening hairs.

Q6: What should I watch for in flowering week 6?
Flowering week 6 often shows continued swelling and stronger resin production. More pistils may begin turning orange or brown, depending on the strain. This is also a time when mold risk can rise as buds thicken, so airflow and humidity control are important.

Q7: What’s typical for flowering week 7?
Flowering week 7 is late flowering for many strains. Buds may swell further, and trichomes become more noticeable and sticky. Many plants slow down new pistil growth, and you may see more pistils darkening and curling inward.

Q8: What happens in flowering week 8?
Flowering week 8 is harvest window territory for a lot of strains, though some need longer. Buds often look “finished,” with most pistils darkened and trichomes covering the flowers. Growers commonly check trichomes closely at this point to judge ripeness.

Q9: What does flowering week 9 mean for the plant?
Flowering week 9 is typical for longer-flowering strains or plants that need extra time to mature. Buds may continue to swell and ripen, and trichomes can shift toward a more mature look. Some leaves may fade in color as the plant nears the end of its cycle.

Q10: How do I know week by week when it’s time to harvest?
Harvest timing is usually judged by flower maturity signs rather than the calendar alone. Week by week, look for bud swelling, pistils darkening and receding, and trichomes becoming more developed. Many growers rely on trichome appearance (using a jeweler’s loupe or microscope) along with overall bud density and aroma to decide the best harvest window.